EVEN if you’ve never been to The Fishery in East Rockaway, you’ve probably been somewhere like it: a casual seafood spot with an outdoor deck overlooking the water (in this case, East Rockaway Inlet). It’s a popular formula all along the Eastern Seaboard from Maine to Florida, but the Fishery is a cut above the norm.

First you have to get inside; on both of our visits, there was bedlam in the crowded parking lot. The outdoor deck helped us forget that mess, beckoning with live music, a very active bar (five deep on busy nights) and, of course, views of the inlet (also called the Talfor Boat Basin). We could see boats in dry dock and passing swans.

Unlike the indoor dining rooms at most outdoor seafood places, those at the Fishery are not afterthoughts; the bar area, for instance, has comfortable leather booths. Being indoors also means being out of earshot of the live music — a plus for some diners.

The Fishery follows the typical format of the waterfront seafood spot: big portions, moderate prices, perky young servers and a bedsheet-size menu of every imaginable fish and shellfish. The difference here is that the food at the Fishery is surprisingly good. Even the small round loaf of bread with a knife sticking out of it (generally a bad sign) was a notch above the usual cottony disaster.

Our eyes were opened to the kitchen’s skills when we ordered a sampler of four chowders: creamy New England, vegetable-laden Manhattan, sweet corn chowder and a soup that combined clams, mussels and spinach. Each was more flavorful than the last; none were gloppy. The unfamiliar clam-mussel-spinach was the star of the bunch.

A big bowl of sweet Long Island steamers was a perfect opener on a summer night. Also impressive were a crunchy roast Long Island duck spring roll with a zippy orange-ginger dip, and a small but tasty classic Caesar salad. The crab cake, unfortunately, had shredded rather than lump crab.

The best entrée was the hot lobster roll, served with melted butter to pour over the toasted bun and sweet lobster meat. It was accompanied by excellent coarse-cut, creamy coleslaw and terrific crisp French fries.

Every entrée came with a choice of two sides from a list of a dozen choices. Onion rings were as delightful as the fries, and string beans were crisp-tender; only waterlogged corn on the cob was disappointing.

A huge pile of fried oysters was a crunchy treat. Seared ginger-teriyaki tuna arrived rare as ordered. Baked flounder draped over crab stuffing was perfect. But a broiled combination plate was a mixed bag (as it usually is). The shrimp and scallops were sweet and tender; the baked clams were bready, and a thin piece of flounder was overcooked.

The staff, dashing around in navy T-shirts and khaki pants or shorts, is friendly and efficient, and even though runners don’t know who ordered what dish, it’s forgivable at such a casual spot.

I’d go to the Fishery just for the desserts. The best is Phil’s homemade New York cheesecake (named for the chef, Phil Girardi). It’s creamy rich and drizzled with caramel sauce. The yummy apple pie also benefits from that caramel sauce. Other hits were a warm cranberry-chocolate chip bread pudding with vanilla sauce, a tangy Key lime pie, a warm chocolate cake and a towering brownie sundae featuring exceptionally moist brownies. All the sweets got a lift from the mound of freshly whipped cream that accompanied them.

Go to the Fishery for the music-fueled scene and the waterfront ambiance; but go, too — even on a cold, rainy night — for the food.

The Fishery, 1 Main Street (an extension of Ocean Avenue), East Rockaway (516) 256-7117

THE SPACE No-frills fish house with large waterfront deck. Wheelchair accessible.

THE CROWD Casually dressed people of all ages.

THE BAR There are two, one outdoors that is crowded on busy nights with patrons listening to live music, and a long wooden bar indoors in a room with black leather booths. There are 30 wines by the bottle ($23 to $190) and 20 by the glass ($6.50 to $8.50).

THE BILL Lunch entrees, $8.95 to $41.95. Dinner entrees, $9.95 to $41.95. MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover are accepted.

WHAT WE LIKE Chowder sampler, duck spring roll, steamers, Caesar salad, lobster roll, fried oysters, stuffed flounder, ginger-teriyaki tuna, coleslaw, French fries, onion rings, string beans, all desserts.

IF YOU GO Open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, till 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations taken for four or more on the deck, for any number inside.